The Amalfi Coast and a Renaissance Master

The Amalfi Coast of Italy curves along the Mediterranean coast, south of Naples. As you rise above the village of Sorrento, you follow the signs to the small village of Sant’Agata sui due Golfi, one of the highest points on the Sorrentine Peninsula. From that village on, hold your breath; this is the most spectacular coast of Italia, and its beauty will create memories you will never forget. 

The major villages, from north to south along this stretch of shoreline are Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, Maiori, Minori and, at the far southern end of the coast, Salerno. The town of Amalfi once represented one of the three largest maritime republics in Italy, along with Genoa and Venice. Today, the port of Amalfi plays host to spectacular private yachts, cruise ships, and the few remaining inhabitants who make their living fishing the rich and varied sea life that inhabit the waters of the Gulf of Salerno. 

The village of Amalfi has one of the most beautiful basilicas on the coast: Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea, the Duomo of Amalfi. The original church was completed in 987 A.D. and additional expansion of the complex was completed at the end of the 13th Century. Contained within the crypt are said to be the remains of Saint Andrew, brought by crusaders to the village of Amalfi at the conclusion of the First Crusade. Within the Cathedral, you will find a well-known painting by a little-known Renaissance artist: Andrea del’Asta (1673-1721). It is his Martyrdom of Saint Andrew, believed to have been completed in 1706. The remains of the apostle are in the crypt, below the cathedral’s altar. 

The piazza you enter after passing through a small arched tunnel from the waterfront offers cafes and shops where you can sit and enjoy a break in the glorious coastal sun, whose rays shimmer off the glazed tile domes of the Cathedral.

Visitors have, for centuries, fallen under the “spell of the sirens” whose haunting calls nearly enticed Odysseus to wreck his ships on the rocks of the Li Galli islands, just off the coast of Positano. These three rocky outposts in the sea, Gallo Lungo (the largest and once home to Rudolf Nureyev), La Rotonda, and La Castelluccia have beckoned travelers since recorded history. The remains of a Roman era boathouse — a few broken columns that lay visible in the shallow water near the shore — provide haunting reminders of the centuries during which these islands were occupied. 

The most well-known villages, Amalfi and Positano, usually pack with tourists during the months of May through September. I recommend you consider making one of the smaller, less-known villages south of Amalfi your base while visiting this area of Italy. From the villages of Minori and Maiori, you can more easily access the autostrada which curves along the shore near Salerno and continues south toward the Cilento coast.

By staying in Minori or Maiori you find a more authentic Amalfitana community with stores, nice restaurants, and lots of locals who will welcome you with open arms. Hotel costs are much lower than those farther north along the coast, and the same is true for the price of dining out as well as prices for food.

A bit farther south of Salerno, you will discover some of the most spectacular ancient temples and ruins in Europe including Paestum, which contains the three most perfectly preserved Doric Temples in the world, and Agripoli, site of one of the earliest ancient Greek settlements on the Mediterranean.

Continuing south, you will encounter the villages of Castellabate, Acciaroli, and Marina di Camerota. These lovely places lie on the shores of the Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano, one of the largest nature preserves in Italy. The Cilento coast has slowly gained popularity, so we recommend going before it is ‘really’ discovered.

When on our small group exploration of Italy, this area rates extremely high in popularity among our new and repeat guests. The cerulean sea, the odor of lemon blossoms wafting on the breezes along the coast in villages, and fresh seafood all combine to make this a truly magical and unforgettable place.

Not much more to say with so few words. The Amalfi Coast is a dream for the awakened, and a place where memories are made along the precipitous coast of Italy.