“Pray for the Paintress”: Plautilla Nelli and the Surprises of San Marco

Florence continues to surprise those of us fortunate enough to have spent years exploring the private and hidden corners in one of the world’s most sought after travel destinations. Such is the case of San Marco Monastery, located an easy ten minute walk north of the city’s Duomo and Baptistery.

While most visitors know of the monks’ cells, Savonarola, and the gorgeous frescoes created by Giotto and Ghirlandaio, few know the story of a group of Sisters, devoted to Saint Catherine of Siena, who lived and created masterpieces of art from inside the monastery. The story of Suor (Sister) Plautilla Nelli presents one of the Renaissance’s finest examples of a woman rising against the tide of a male dominated society and creating works of unimaginable beauty in spite of the restrictions placed upon her. When you next visit the Monastery, remember to ask about Suor Nelli. Her masterpiece, The Last Supper, is exhibited in the museum of the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, across town. She signed this work S. Plautilla. Orate Pro Pictora. Suor Plautilla. Pray for the Paintress, claiming both her gender and her place among other great artists.

When you visit, be sure to explore some of these other little known corners of San Marco Monastery and the area surrounding the Piazza San Marco.

As you face the Monastery and Church of San Marco, walk along the left of the complex and continue north along Via Camillo Cavour about fifty meters. You will come to a nondescript door with a marker indicating the Offices of San Marco. Make sure you check for open hours! Upon entering, approach the caretaker who sits in a glass booth facing the small lobby. Just ask to view the Pietro Annigoni frescoes of the Deposition. The caretaker will guide you to the convent refectory entrance, unlock the door, and let you stay as long as you wish. There is no charge to view the work. Annigoni was born in 1910 and died in 1988. This particular work of the Deposition is a startlingly modern vision of the events following Christ’s death on the cross. Rarely in Florence do visitors have the opportunity to view the work of a modern artist whose technique in fresco matches the quality of the Renaissance and whose deference to the beauty of those frescoes is so gorgeously presented.

When you complete your visit to San Marco and look for a great dinner, think no further than Trattoria da Tito. In about six minutes, you will reach this fabulous Trattoria on Via San Gallo, 112/r.  We highly recommend reservations. The que begins to form in front of the Trattoria by 6:30 PM in preparation for the 7:00PM opening. 

I have one more suggestion in this area of Florence:

Museo di Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia, at the corner of Via San Gallo and Via Ventisette Aprile, holds Andrea del Castagna’s Last Supper,an important frescoes of the early Renaissance. This early work by Castagna, dated 1445-1450 is a leap in terms of the depiction of this seminal event in the story of Christ. Entrance is free after signing in at the front desk. The side walls of the refectory also display frescoes of note of the Crucifixion, Resurrection and Burial of Christ. Please note, also, the anteroom near the registration desk with important works by Paolo Chiavo, Neri di Bicci, and Raffaello da Montelupo are exhibited. 

 

As for a place to stay, I recommend both the Hotel Castri on the Piazza della Indipendenza and the Hotel Orto de’ Medici on Via San Gallo. Both offer exceptionally comfortable rooms, climate controls, and attentive services at very reasonable prices.

NOTE: This blog is written during COVID-19 restrictions. If visiting Florence before those restrictions are lifted, please check all recommendations mentioned to ensure availability.