Renaissance Man in Switzerland: Niklaus Manuel Deutsch

 

Bern lies in the heart of one of the most beautiful cantons of Switzerland, a gorgeous walled city center now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At the beginning of the 16th century when one Niklaus Manuel Deutsch was born, the city had survived numerous plagues and long periods of political repression.

I came to the city to find out more about this elusive artist. Before heading out for the day, I decided to enjoy a coffee at Adriano’s Bar and Cafe, just around the corner from the Zytglogge, a marvelous late Medieval clock tower, and symbol of the city. Records indicate the artist purchased a home on the Gerechtigkeitsgasse, #72, just steps from my cafe. It was a blustery winter day, and I saw only a few people braving the cold. I always feel the history of European places during periods of dark weather; perhaps it is the lack of people on the streets, the gray sky, the gray pavers, and the warm illumination emanating from cafes, homes, and businesses that brings on this historical melancholy.

Regardless, after a piping hot coffee, I walked through the city center’s narrow lanes to the location of Niklaus’ home. The structure still stands, though now framed by a beer hall and other businesses. Try as I might to imagine the family’s life in the 16th Century, the passing trams and noises from local businesses made such images impossible. Still, this lovely city retains a great sense of its Medieval and Renaissance feel. The city center and lovely promenades that line a wide curve of the Aare River evoke both an understanding of the care the Swiss give to their beloved cities, and also a better understanding of how commerce moved, and still moves, across Europe.

As I arrived at the Nydeggbrucke, a lovely bridge that spans the Aare, I stopped to imagine a city whose art was influenced by both Manuel Deutsch and Holbein. I referred to a notebook I carry with me across Europe and reviewed some of the history of one of Bern’s beloved Renaissance sons.

Niklaus was born into a middle class family. His father, Emanuel, emigrated to this area of Switzerland from the Piedmont of Italy and worked as an apothecary. His mother, despite conflicting research, was most likely the illegitimate daughter of a Bern city scribe and city council member.

Occasional commissions given to Niklaus were varied. The Dominican Abbey housed his most well known work, a fresco on a cemetery wall, c.1516 – 1517. The work was destroyed in the 17th Century, but not before another artist, Albrecht Kauw, made a copy. The Abbey, following the reformation, was named the Frazosische Kirche in honor of the French speaking Protestants of the city. Later still, the Huguenots who fled persecution in France worshiped in this church.

Niklaus entered mercenary service to fight in the War of the League of Cambrai. After his return from that conflict, he moved his career away from painting to become well known as an author and playwright. His harsh criticism of the Pope, particularly Pope Leo X, a Medici, was reflected in two plays written for Fasnachtsspiele. Those plays have been credited for having great influence in moving the Swiss citizens to Reformation. Niklaus returned to the city following his mercenary career in 1528 and traced his father’s footsteps, serving as a member of the city council of the city until his death in 1530.

The winds picked up on the bridge, and so I strolled eastward toward the Bärengraben, one of the most visited sites in the city. Bern, or bear, is the symbol of the Bern Canton, and the city now has a round pit in which several bears cavort and perform for the interested visitor. My destination, however, was the Brasserie Bärengraben, one of the city’s best restaurants, located just across the avenue from the Bärengraben. As I entered the welcome warmth of this Brasserie, I placed my notebook back in my shoulder satchel, sat, and enjoyed a marvelous meal.

As you visit any city in Europe, remember that history’s famous daughters and sons created the cultural soul of these places we have the privilege to enjoy. Surprises abound, much like the story of Niklaus Manuel Deutch. Keep searching!