On a recent Sunday afternoon, I drive south out of Florence into the spectacular hills of the Val d’Orcia south of Siena. This area of Tuscany is sparse and wide; recently plowed fields the color of burnt umber undulate across a countryside of dreams. The quintessential vision of Tuscany unfolds before me. Cypress tree lined gravel driveways approach gorgeous villas on hilltops, bell towers in the distance signal a village, a borgo, a city. The road winds its way toward the hills near Asciano where my accommodation for the evening, Villa Armena, awaits.
The approach to the villa is straight out of The English Patient. A rough gravel road passes a few restored country estates, the infinite blue of the sky is pierced by cypresses.
Laura, whom as I later learn wears many hats on the property, warmly greets me upon arrival. The room – actually a suite – is stunning, with views over the hillside from one set of windows, the pool and formal gardens from the other. The place is so quiet that I can hear the wind whisper around and through the trees that surround the property.
The nearby Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore has been a destination on my Italy “hope list” for many years. After registering at the small front desk and leaving my luggage behind, I head to this incredible and historic abbey. (More to follow in an upcoming blog: Monte Oliveto Maggiore – A Stunning Abbey on an Emerald Hill).
After weeks of work with our small group tours, this place offers a welcomed retreat. Dinner begins at 19:30. Laura is also a sommelier and to accompany my selection of local pecorino cheeses with orange marmalade and honey, to be followed by sliced Chianina beef, she recommends a lush, flavorful Ciliegiolo.
Dessert is hand made cantuccini (biscotti with pistachio-a unique twist on the traditional almond or pine nut) served with local Vin Santo. To top off a lovely dinner, I enjoy just a taste of the locally produced Grappa Reserva.
Fabulous.
Upon rising the next morning, I open the windows to take in the garden view. Fog wraps the garden in the early light, making the view even more breathtaking.
The breakfast buffet is ample, replete with local meats, cheeses, fresh juice, cappuccino, yogurt, breads…the offerings go on and on.
After checking out, I head south from Buonconvento on the S2 highway.
The drive from the Villa Armena to Orbetello is stunning. The road winds across fields recently veiled in mist. As the sun breaks through the morning fog, soil shimmers as if crusted in diamonds, heightening the effect of near indescribable beauty.
Montalcino rises in the distance, a russet sentinel above the valley below. Once away from the hills of the southern Val d’Orcia, the road straightens and the land opens wide; Maremma. As I leave my car for an espresso at a local cafe, I know I’m close to my destination; I can smell the sea.
Thick emerald green umbrella pines, Pini di Roma as they are called, line the road. Bougainvillea in full bloom begin to appear as the road continues south.
Orbetello is a wonderful surprise; a walled city whose leaders once controlled this area of Tuscany, later subjugated by the forces of Grosseto. The white marble gate is at once an historic reminder of warning and an unforgettable way to enter the city center.
My destination is a lovely, lovingly and recently restored B&B on the Corso Italia; Casa Iris. Matthew and his husband, James, acquired the property several years ago and have created a beautiful retreat in the heart of the city. Steps from the Piazza Cortesini, the location could not be better. There are shops and many wonderful restaurants only minutes walk from the accommodation.
Each suite provides luxury, comfort and privacy. 17th and 18th Century frescoes enliven the walls and ceilings. The couple was able to engage Maria Rosaria Basileo and her team of five other experts, whose previous work includes restorations in Rome’s Villa Borghese and the Sistine Chapel, to lead the property’s fresco renovation.
The furnishings were all carefully and lovingly selected to add an eclectic edge to the rooms. It took months of work with architect Giorgia Cerulli to bring the entire concept together. The results are stunning.
A travel writer recently observed, “A great hotel experience often has less to do with the quality of the turn-down service and more about the fantasy that it creates…a great property is a microcosm of place, often representing a region’s or a culture’s mythology and aspirations for itself.”
Casa Iris achieves that sense of place, of a culture’s mythology, in a remarkable way. After a painstakingly long and involved restoration, the owners have created a retreat that entices you to stay, to learn more about this lovely area of Tuscany, to relax and take in a sense of the ages.
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