As I prepare to board a flight out of Florence’s Peretola Airport, I always make a point to look to the northeast and seek out an incredibly special villa. In the near distance stands one of the Medici Family’s most beautiful country residences, La Petraia.
The original structure dates to the 14th Century. The Brunelleschi, Salutati, and Strozzi families all claimed the villa as their own between 1364 to 1544. In that year, Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici purchased the property and gifted it to his son, Cardinal Francesco in 1568. When Florence became the capital of Italy in 1865, the King of Italy took up residence in the building. In 1870, when the capital moved to Rome, so moved the King.
The location of the villa, on the outskirts of Florence and at the base of the foothills separating the province of Tuscany from Emilia Romagna, provides gorgeous views over the Arno valley from its beautifully designed Belvedere. The current location name, “localita’ Castello” simply means “place of the Castle.” The interior atrium, one of the most beautiful spaces within any of the Medici villas, is more than worth the time to visit.
Contained within the villa is a famous series of Lunettes by Flemish artist Giusto (Justus) Jutens. Grand Duke Ferdinand I de Medici commissioned these lunettes, which depict views of the Medici villas, and Justens completed them in 1602. Also located within this gorgeous property visitors will find numerous works by a Renaissance female artist, Giovanna Fratellini, a noted portraitist who primarily used pastels for her work. The villa houses a large collection of Giovanna’s works.
When I plan a day out in Florence’s nearby countryside, I also include a visit to the Museo Stibbert. Located an easy fifteen-minute drive from La Petraia, the museum houses one of the world’s finest collections of antiques. Frederik Stibbert, the founder of the museum, came from a line of English public servants. His father was a Colonel of the Coldstream Guards. His grandfather Giles, while serving as the Governor of Bengal, India, acquired a huge fortune. Frederik himself served in the Italian War of Independence.
Just north of the Museo sit several lovely small Tuscan towns. Pian de Mugnone remains my personal favorite. The views over the hills from the parterre in front of The Chiesa del SS Crocifisso a Fontelucente in the village are unforgettable. This lovely small church contains one of Italy’s most contemporary paintings of the Crucifixion by Rodolfo Meli.
After a quick drive from La Petraia, you can enjoy one of the best restaurants in this area of Tuscany, La Bottega di Parigi. Why the name? Well, the owner, Mihaela Ursu, has always had a fascination with the city of Paris. Most notable, however, is her talent for hospitality, built around true Tuscan family recipes. This magical place offers fabulous food, great atmosphere, a passion for exceptional service, and attention to the finest quality of ingredients. I never miss an opportunity to stop in and enjoy a fabulous lunch or dinner.
So, to experience a day of history and unforgettable food, make it a point to visit Villa La Petraia and this lovely area near Florence. When I get my last glimpse of the villa before entering the airplane to depart bella Firenze, my mind wanders to the many wonderful memories made in and near Villa La Petraia.