Truffles and Trevi: The Flavors of Umbria

A Chance Discovery

Many years ago, by sheer luck, I found myself in the small town of Trevi. This treasure rests in the province of Umbria, adjacent to the SS3, the main road that winds north from Terni to Foligno. I stopped in the town to have lunch and discovered, either by accident or ‘divine providence,’ the Ristorante L’Ulivo. Situated at the heart of town, this place has proven consistent and reliable for fabulous Umbrian cuisine, prepared by ‘la familia’ and served with pride. I’ve enjoyed many meals there with guests on our Umbria Le Marche Tour, with friends, or on my own.

That first experience included freshly baked bread served with white truffle oil and a local pasta served with a very light white sauce flecked with shavings of truffle. To cap off the meal, I enjoyed one of the best Rocciata—a local specialty dessert of the region. The Rocciata is an over-the-top pastry filled with pine nuts, almonds, raisins, and a whole bevy of other delights. Unforgettable.

Richness of Art…and Truffles

As lunch concluded, I spoke with Signore Bastianelli, one of the founding family’s sons who works at the restaurant. We discussed truffles in Umbria. He seemed shocked I had not explored the rich diversity of both white and black truffles in the area near Trevi. We enjoyed some conversation, primarily on where to learn about truffles and truffle hunting. He recommended I contact anyone in Pettino, about twenty minutes away, about enjoying a truffle hunt.

We talked for a bit about local artists and the incredible history of early Renaissance art along this Umbrian valley. He recommended I stop at the Barnabite monastery complex in the village of Campello Alto, only ten minutes away. Here I could view several frescoes in the style of Giotto, particularly one or two created by El Spagna.

Following a fabulous lunch, I headed along the ‘old road’, the Via Virgilio, to the village of Campello sul Clitunno, a stop quite worth the time. Incredible views over the valley surround the ancient church of the monastery. Inside, you will find a fresco of The Madonna, created by El Spagna, a painter known for a similar style to the work of Perugino. Stunning.

On to Pettino, another twenty-five minutes farther. The twists and turns of the steep road offers breathtaking views. Upon arrival in the tiny village, I asked a few locals for referrals for a truffle hunt. Francesca Chiacchiarini’s name came up repeatedly.

Making the Most of Travel

I made a note to get more information about the truffle hunts at a later time. However, I needed to get to my hotel in Assisi where a friend was meeting me for an Aperitivo followed by dinner. On the way back to my car, I passed a cat lazing in the late afternoon shade. Although the photograph included above isn’t that cat, the photo reminds me of how great food, warm sun, and time to breathe makes us all the more grateful for whatever time we have to spend in bella Italia.

When you travel the backroads of Italy, take time to stop in small villages and strike up a conversation with owners of stores, restaurants, or cafes. These locals often speak fluent English, and, through those connections, you will find ever more memorable sites and tastes to enjoy.