Naples: Treasury of Italy

The city of Naples delights the eye, the palette, and the intellectual mind, but treasury? How so? How can a city that has become the brunt of jokes and even downright disgust be a treasury? When the Houses of Aragon and Bourbon occupied Naples and controlled the Kingdom of Two Sicilies, the wealth created by wise investment and occupation resulted in a gold reserve exceeding twice the combined total reserves of the Papal States, the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, the Kingdom of Sardinia (Piedmonte), Lombardo Veneto, Parma, and Modena. In pure numbers, in 1870 the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies had more than 445 million gold lire in reserve compared to the 225.2 million combined total of these other regions.

Given this history, how did Naples and Southern Italy become the brunt of jokes, and a place of stigma and poverty? 

When Italy was unified, officials decided to move the gold reserves from Naples to the north, to the land of Rome, Florence, Venice and what has become known as the industrial north. The resulting vacuum of resources created a financial crisis of huge proportions in all of the regions from Campagna south, and this area has never recovered. When the residents of the north complain that much of the welfare paid out in Italy is directed south, when the north implies the laziness and a certain lackadaisical attitude on the part of the ‘southerners’, when the government of Italy appears to ignore the needs of the ‘poor south’, they do so while biting the hand that fed them. 

Consider these facts: The first astronomical observatory in Italy was built in Naples. The first meteorological observatory in Italy was constructed in Naples. The first seismological observatory in Italy was created near Vesuvius. The first telegraph service in Italy was established from Naples.The city of Naples was the first city IN THE WORLD to supply running water to residential homes, and the first railway line in Italy, from Naples to Portici, was completed in 1839. These are hardly the results of a lazy and frivolous people. 

I digress.

When in Naples, I enjoy an intriguing culture, one built on the trust of family and an open welcoming attitude to those who come to visit. Gorgeous villas and small villages of incredible beauty line The famous coast that surrounds the Bay of Naples, bustling with industries which create some of the most famous food products of Italy: lasagna, pizza, salame Napoli, mozzarella buffa, provolone, calamarata…the list goes on and on. Okay, so food products do not a fortune make. How about the three Palazzi Reale that dot the landscape of Naples, most particularly Caserta, the crown jewel of European Royal Palaces? With 250 rooms, a two-mile water park replete with fountains and wide avenue, it far outshines Versailles. The most gorgeous baroque chapel in all of Italy, the Capella San Severo, contains incredible sculptures, the jewel of which is the Cristo Velato, the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino (1753). The National Archaeological Museum of Naples houses the majority of valuable artifacts from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Villa Poppaea, as well as the Farense Collection of sculptures.

To heap treasure on treasure, there is the Amalfi Coast, home to Sorrento, Positano, Vico Equense, Maiori, Minori, Praiano, and Montepertuso. There you will find limoncello, the signature digestivo created from the yellow golden lemons which grow in abundance along the steep coastline. At one time, Amalfi represented one of the three largest maritime republics in Italy. It is now a lovely town, frequented by visitors who come to view the gorgeous duomo of the city, to learn about the town’s famous paper industry, and to enjoy a break in one of the cafes that line the Piazza Duomo, the village’s main square. 

When you plan a trip to the south, please be sure to set aside at least a week to enjoy the beauty, the flavors, the gorgeous art, and the welcoming people of Naples and the Amalfi Coast. You will never be disappointed. 

Some recommendations as you consider such a visit:

I suggest two nights in Naples at a four or five star hotel. Prices in the city are much lower than on the Amalfi Coast, or Rome for that matter.

In the city, make sure to visit the National Archaeological Museum, Capella Sansevero, and the Castel Nuovo. If you make arrangements for a private driver, you can easily visit the Villa Poppaea in Torre Annunziata (the country villa of Nero’s second wife), Pompeii, and Herculaneum. Then? Head out of Naples to the Amalfi Coast.

I recommend staying in the village of Minori and particularly. No, this is not Positano, yet you can enjoy a lovely small village on the southern end of the Amalfi Coast with easy access to ferries headed to Positano, Amalfi, and Capri and can enjoy fabulous meals at any of a number of family owned restaurants along the waterfront and in the village proper. 

As you consider the history of Italy, please always remember the treasury of the south propelled the Industrial Age in the country. The culture of the south is rich in every way, and I hope you will have the opportunity to visit and enjoy all this region of Italy has to offer.