Sicily remains as confounding and amazing as I found it during my first visit fifteen years ago. Each annual return brings surprises and experiences beyond imagination — none so more so than the discovery of a painting by a Dutch artist, Vrancke van der Stockt in, of all places, the Basilica of San Giorgio, the Duomo of Caltagirone, Sicily’s “City of Ceramics”. During a recent visit, I encountered this unusual work and began to search for background details that would provide some means of explanation. How did a 15th Century Dutch painting come to such a location?
Little is known about the journey of this extraordinary work from Brussels to Caltagirone. We do know the artist, Vrancke van der Stockt, was born in Brussels in 1424 and trained in the workshop of “Master Jan” (Jan van Eyck). Van der Stockt also studied under Rogier van der Weyden (1399 – 1464). This work showcases the influence of both van Eyck and van der Weyden. I find it interesting that numerous Sicilian tourist publications attribute the work to Van Der Weyden rather than Stockt. The work of van der Weyden’s teacher, Robert Campin (1375-1444), known as the Master of Flémalle, also proved highly influential to Stockt’s style. Stockt succeeded van de Weyden as official painter of Brussels in 1464 and was appointed the city’s Master of the Guild of St. Luke after inheriting his father’s studio.
He painted the Throne of Grace between 1485 and the year of van der Stockt’s death, 1495. The Favorotta family acquired the painting between 1721 and 1750. Genealogical records of the Favorotta family in Sicily date to 1721. It is believed that the family arrived in Sicily from Spain; none of that conjecture has, however, been proven. In her last Will and testament of 1777, Baroness Agata of Interlandi di Favorotta stipulated that the painting be venerated on the day of the Feast of the Most Holy Trinity in dedication to her family. Subsequent to that stipulation, the work became known as the Interlandi Throne of Grace.
As a side note, the history of Caltagirone, right down to its name, is woven into the fascinating history of Sicily. The Arabs occupied the hilltop on which Caltagrione stands in the early 11th Century A.D. The city’s name derives from from the Arabic word كالتاج يروني, kalttajirunii, or “City of ‘pottery’ jars”. It is an amazing experience to stroll the lanes of this city and visit the numerous ceramic stores which line each side of the narrow streets.
One final note about this beautiful city: One simply must experience the Miraculous Stairway which leads from the main piazza in town up to the Church of Santa Maria del Monte (Saint Mary of the Mount) — truly one of the highlights of a visit here. The staircase was completed in 1608 and consists of 142 stairs, each riser lined with handcrafted mosaic tiles. Built to provide access to the Church of Santa Maria del Monte, the stairs mark both civil and religious holidays. This masterpiece of engineering and design provides testament to the particularly strong religious affiliation of the city, showcasing the incredible talents of the city’s numerous ceramicists.
A side trip well worth taking:
When you visit Caltagirone, take some time to explore the small village of San Michele di Ganzaria located 8 miles (13.3 Km’s) northwest of Caltagirone’s north city gate on the SS 124. I discovered this village on my first visit to the heart of Sicily and have been returning ever since. There you will find the Hotel Pomara The restaurant at this lovely hotel is, in a word, fabulous. The chef grills fresh local meats over a wood fire, fresh vegetables complement the plentiful portions, the desserts are indescribably good, and the staff could not be more accommodating. It is difficult to imagine a restaurant more local and truly Sicilian than the Pomara.
As in other encounters with the Italian, Sicilian, culture, surprises are yours. Visit Caltagirone on your next visit to Sicily. In addition to visiting the Basilica to view the Stockt painting, be sure to include a meal, and even perhaps an overnight stay, at the Hotel Pomara in San Michele di Ganzaria.